Trend’s most controversial haircut, the mullet, has made a comeback in the course of the pandemic. Cassidy George tracks the rollercoaster historical past of this divisive trim.
tyle will be – amongst different issues – a manner for people to specific the affect of the exterior world. It makes good sense, then, that the definitive magnificence development of the earlier yr – some of the chaotic and traumatic years in international reminiscence – is the resurgence of some of the reviled and lampooned haircuts in fashionable historical past: the mullet. The lengthy within the again, quick on the top-and-sides look has made a strong and poetic comeback in the course of the coronavirus pandemic, that (just like the virus itself) exhibits no indicators of leaving us quickly.
We are able to largely thank the mullet-donning stars Joe Unique (Tiger King) and Crystal Methyd (Ru Paul’s Drag Race) for planting the seeds of this flourishing development in spring 2020, which has since develop into a widespread cultural phenomenon. “It is utterly true what they are saying,” pop star Troye Sivan informed Vogue.com when requested concerning the hair he debuted in his latest music video, which opens with a dramatic shot of him chopping his personal mullet. “It is horrible and wonderful on the identical time.” Sivan is only one of numerous celebrities to affix the mullet ranks within the earlier yr, alongside Miley Cyrus, Rihanna (whose Savage X Fenty present was plagued by fashions sporting the identical model), Cara Delevingne, Barbie Ferreira, Jacob Elordi, Halsey, Debby Ryan, Irina Shayk, Maisie Williams, Keke Palmer and extra.
The trickle-down impact is already in full power in mainstream model. On the time of writing, a seek for #mullet on Instagram summons greater than 750,000 photographs; the identical hashtag on TikTok has accrued 1.6 billion views. “Mullets was a damaging time period that folks used to explain a haircut that had ‘gone flawed’. Now it is my primary request,” says London hairstylist, Lulu Richards. “Purchasers from all backgrounds, ages, jobs and existence are after one.”
Though it is largely agreed that the mullet’s first surge of recognition within the twentieth Century was because of Paul McCartney (who debuted the look as early as 1972) and glam rock icon David Bowie – or as he was higher recognized in his crimson mullet, Ziggy Stardust – there was hypothesis that the mullet has a extra historic historical past. The primary point out of the same model is within the Iliad, when Homer describes a bunch of spearman as having “their forelocks cropped, hair grown lengthy on the backs.” In his Secret Historical past, the Sixth-Century Byzantine scholar Procopius wrote about chariot race hooligans in Historic Rome: “The hair of their heads they minimize off in entrance again to the temples, leaving the half behind to hold all the way down to a really nice size in a mindless style.”
The mullet as we all know it did not develop into a preferred model till the Eighties
In his much-cited e book Mullet Insanity, creator Alan Henderson claims: “Proof of the mullet’s existence in developed civilisations will be present in statues and artworks from Greece relationship again from the Sixth Century BC.” Though the silhouettes of sure hairstyles in Greek or Roman artwork (for instance in Kouros or sure depictions of Apollo) do mimic the mullet’s L-shaped silhouette, artwork historians and historic hair consultants Katherine Schwab and Marice Rose dismiss Henderson’s suggestion. “Cautious and shut trying of archaeological materials from historic Mediterranean cultures can problem the declare of the mullet as a prevailing or frequent coiffure,” they shared in a bunch assertion. “Historic hairstyles have been socially managed and intently tied to id, which is the alternative of what the up to date mullet appears to specific: individuality and insurrection.”
Although there are some honourable proto-mullets within the 18th and nineteenth Centuries (Benjamin Franklin, James Ok Polk), the mullet as we all know it did not develop into a preferred model till the Eighties. Stylist, salon proprietor and UAL affiliate lecturer John Vial remembers the haircut rising to prominence in correlation with extra gender-fluid types and New Romanticism. “The mullet has a really particular place in our lives, as a result of it actually began to alter the boundaries of what was accepted for women and men.” With its eye-catching and dramatic form, the mullet – which fuses historically masculine and female types into one – was particularly engaging to the queer neighborhood, for whom the model grew to become a nonverbal cue of their sexuality. “From an LGBTQ standpoint, it was an extremely secure place to be. Should you have been a lesbian who needed to really feel barely extra boyish, you may put on your hair shorter across the body and have the security of the size within the again. The identical utilized to boys who needed a bit extra hair,” Vial stated.
Beneath the steerage of rock stars, actors, athletes and different pop cultural figures, the mullet entered a golden age of recognition, adopted by folks throughout age ranges, races, courses, gender expressions and nationalities. Probably the most well-known mullets of the period are the extra excessive pressure, belonging to stars like Billy Ray Cyrus, John Stamos, Rod Stewart and Andre Agassi – however let’s not overlook that heartthrobs like Brad Pitt, Patrick Swayze and George Clooney had mullet moments too. Black celebrities together with Michael Jackson, Lionel Richie and James Brown donned the edgy minimize, as did feminine performers, like Cher, Joan Jett, Jane Fonda and Ellen DeGeneres. Henderson describes the haircut’s zenith in Mullet Insanity: “Whether or not you have been steel, nation, yuppie, or punk, jock or biker, it was your model.”
Rising from the ashes
Saying the mullet fell out of fashion within the mid-90s is a dramatic understatement; it was condemned as maybe essentially the most tragic style fake pas of the last decade. On this interval, the minimize (which is thought by numerous different monikers, like hockey hair, the bi-level, the Kentucky waterfall and so forth) lastly earned the identify by which we all know it right this moment, because of the musical group, Beastie Boys. Of their now defunct journal Grand Royal, they attacked the model in a six-page function. The story reads: “There’s nothing fairly as dangerous as a nasty haircut. And maybe the worst haircut of all is the minimize we name The Mullet.”
This haircut’s capability to incite such dramatic reactions of disapproval finally gave it a “cult-like” attraction
This mildly pejorative time period nods again to an insult used within the nineteenth Century (for instance, by Mark Twain) to explain somebody of restricted intelligence. The Beastie Boys echoed their disdain for the haircut of their 1994 track Mullethead, which additional popularised the time period. As soon as the majestic hair of rock stars and intercourse symbols, within the mid- to late-90s the mullet grew to become a punchline, satirised in comedies like Joe Grime, by which David Spade stars as a mullet-sporting janitor. This haircut’s capability to incite such dramatic reactions of disapproval finally gave it a “cult-like” attraction. Those that boldly retained the polarising look started to explain it as “not solely a haircut, however a lifestyle”.
All through the 2000s, the mullet remained the butt of many jokes, however its standing because the “final dangerous haircut” instilled it with a novel energy that enticed progressives within the style business. When positioned on a runway or crimson carpet, the mullet demanded consideration, sparked outrage and served as a dependable dialog starter. Capitalising on its controversial aura, stylist Guido Palau shocked the world with a slew of mullets at Marc Jacobs’ FW13 present. Three years later, Zendaya’s sandy mullet on the Grammys incited a vicious wave of on-line criticism. However as extra mullets made appearances on the catwalks of manufacturers like Off-White or Celine and in campaigns by Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, the hatred for the look has develop into much less virulent. “Issues do translate from runway to actuality, however I believe it takes round three or 4 years,” Vial, who recurrently types hair for designers at London Trend Week, tells BBC Tradition. “It simply takes time for folks’s eyes to regulate.”
Lockdown seems to be
The method of adjustment was expedited in the course of the 2020 pandemic. Lack of entry to salons required many individuals to take their hair into their very own arms; shaggier, looser types have develop into a matter of practicality. Intensive intervals of social isolation are additionally perfect situations for magnificence experiments. With nowhere to go and nobody to please, the stakes in attempting out one thing drastic like a mullet have by no means been decrease. “I’ve been chopping mullets for years, however what has modified… is the perspective,” Richards stated. “On the subject of my purchasers’ relationship with their hair, everybody’s braver and keen for a change.”
Whereas its connotations with queerness and androgyny are nonetheless very potent, the mullet’s associations with a rejection of mainstream magnificence are fading, because it grows in recognition. “It was an actual Marmite factor,” Vial explains. “You both discovered it repugnant otherwise you liked it. However now we do not assume twice once we see a mullet.” Early adopter Rob Ayton, who acquired a mullet again in 2017, stated he supposed for his haircut to be a “center finger to social norms”. Because the reigning champion of Australia’s Mulletfest, Ayton says the model he was incessantly ridiculed for is now trigger for international celebration. And although the mullet could not be surprising per-se, it has definitely retained its ironic humour. When requested if he helps the expansion of the development, Ayton replies: “We want extra smiling faces [in] 2021!”